17.08.2006 >>

DAILY NEWS: Zanzibar - a mirror to the romantic past

Correspondent GRATIAN LUHIKULA IF there is a place where the magic of ancient times evokes the exotic, it is the Zanzibar Stone Town. Without any exaggeration, the town is like a living museum where every sight, every glance conjures up a romantic past. As the Sea Express hydrofoil boat landed us at the Zanzibar harbour, we instantly got the feel of the great island. The people, the attire and even the tone of Kiswahili were all quite different from Dar es Salaam. The harbour, popularly known as the Dhow Harbour, that was once a point of agony and misery for the slaves landed from the mainland, was a colourful and bustling scene. As I watched the graceful dhow skim effortlessly across the calm waters, I couldnit resist imagining of the similar crafts that landed slaves on the same harbour a century ago. But the Zanzibaris who were now crowding the harbour were a cheerful and confident lot, eager to receive valuable goods contained in the dhow. We quickly went through the immigration formalities, before we boarded a mini bus to begin our highly anticipated tour. Before we left the horbour, our tour guide, Ahamed gave us a brief on the cultural norms of the people of Zanzibar. Different from Tanzania mainland, Zanzibar is a traditional Muslim society, which only appreciates visitors whose conduct and behaviour did not offend the Muslim culture. Emphasis is put on dressing, where a tourist walking around in skimpy shorts, sleeveless shirt or bare-chested or in transparent clothing is considered as half naked or walking in underwear. Other aspects like public consumption of alcohol outside hotel grounds, or public displays of affection, such as kissing are all considered offensive to the local society. After the briefing, Jeal and Anne, the two ladies in our team, couldn't wait but to pick pairs of khanga from a vendor. As we walked towards our car, our two ladies in their khanga wrap, looked perfectly assimilated to the Zanzibar cultural heritage. Our drive to Narrow Street Hotel where we were booked gave us a good introduction of the Stone Town relics. As the car cruised along the streets we sighted exotic architecture of ornate balconies and beautifully carved teak doors that decorated most buildings. The aroma of spices that escaped home kitchens and restaurants was a homely assurance to a testy stay in the island. And it was indeed a testy stay as we literary feasted on the sumptuous spicy dishes that were served at every restaurant we tried. The character of Zanzibar cooking reflects the traditions, history and ethnic diversity of the island. Traditions in cooking have been scrupulously maintained here, despite the modernization influence of western civilization. The island recipes dating from the13th Century deviate only marginally from dishes still served today. As we had breakfast in the next morning, everyone was looking forward to the anticipated walking tour of the Stone Town. Immediately after breakfast, our car arrived. Our guide, Rashid Ali, explained that the car would drop us at the Central Market, the starting point of our tour that would take us about three to four hours. 'We could use less time, if you wish, but to get most of it, I think three to four hours will leave us satisfied,' said Rashid. We all agreed to use four hours or more if it is necessary to get the most a walking tour can provide. Indeed, Rashid proved to know the history of Zanzibar like the backside of his hand. Our first point was the Central Market marikit-- on Creek Road. Opened in 1904, the market provides the best opportunity for seeing the cospomopolitan nature of the Zanzibar people. Women clad in black buibui or colourful khanga and kitenge, shop around. Men wearing long white robs kanzu and beautifully embroidered hats bargashia-- attend their commodity stalls. Wooden handcarts filled with fresh products off-loaded from small, wood panelled buses at the adjacent bus stop. Shoppers of different races and colours, of different attire and make up, all rub shoulders in the busy market. From the market we walked to the Anglican Cathedral, built in 1887, built by Bishop Steere to commemorate the end of Slave Trade. The church stands at the exact place where auctions of slaves were carried out. According to Rashid, the church was built on Sultan Bargash condition that the cathedralis tower will not raise higher than the Sultanis palace. Inside the church were various interesting items that reflected to the enchanting past. The impressive marble pillars, wood panels, beautifully stained glass windows and a small wooden crucifix in the chancel, which is said to have been made from the very tree under which Dr. Livingston died in 1875. From the church Rashid led us to the Zanzibar National Museum. Built in 1925, the Museum exhibits relics and documents of Sultans, slave traders and Missionaries. Dr Livingstonis medicine chest and the story and pictures of the German battle ship, the Koningsberg, whose remains still lie deep in the Rufiji delta opposite Mafia Island, fascinated me. On leaving the Museum, Rashid pointed to Tumekuja School where about 2000 children receive their education. We couldn't tour the school, but Rashid informed us that under one of the buildings are slave pits which were used by trader Tippu Tip to store his human cargo. We sighted other impressive old buildings before we came to the timeless African House. Now a hotel, it has fascinating elements of the past. Quite rewarding is the hotelis library; no doubt one of the oldest in East Africa packed with old books of the great times. Nearby is Tippu Tip House with its black and white marble steps and magnificently carved door. Before we came to the Old Fort, Ngome Kongwe, which has been turned into a sports complex, we witnessed yet another monument of the ill fated slave trade. Now known as Mambo Msiige Building, once owned by a prominent trader who would bury slaves alive within the buildings' walls, according to the old customs. The building later became the headquarters of the Universities Mission to Central Africa and later, from 1873 to 1887, it housed the British Consulate. We spent some good minutes admiring the Zanzibar Beit-el-Ajaib n the house of wonder. This house was however closed to visitors. Built in 1883 by Sultan Bargash and still standing above all buildings in the Stone Town, it displays a very example of the old art of door carving. Two Old Portuguese bronze canons, which Rashid said, dated to the 16th Century, stood clearly in the palace's impressive gardens. Further ahead we came to the People's Palace, a fine structure that from 1880 to 1964 housed the sultans and their families. Nearby the place is Nasur Nurmohamed Dispensary, an ornate structure that was once owned by a prominent Ismailian Indian. We winded our tour by wandering in the maze of narrow streets and alleys hemmed in by whitewashed buildings with thick stonewall. This gave us an opportunity to see quaint little shops, bazaars and curio stores packed with chests, coffee percolators, copper dishes, and marble topped wooden tables, antique clocks and many other old and new items of curiosity. But what seemed to captivate almost everyone in the group was the close contact to the people, who were proud of their culture and their simple way of life that mirrored to the ancient cultures.